Central Pacific
Costa Rica’s central Pacific coast
is a year-round tropical playground.
Its evergreen forests meet warm Pacific
surf on sandy beaches to provide a unique
setting that Costa Ricans and foreign
travelers discovered long ago.
The Pacific port town of Puntarenas,
which sits on a narrow finger of sand
jutting into the Gulf of Nicoya, marks
the transitional zone and provides access
to the country’s mid Pacific. This territory
is composed of a combination of private
reserves and active villages. Activities
include sports fishing, surfing at its
best and many other activities ranging
from forest oriented to deep sea adventures.
An ancient fishing port, the dark beaches
of this sleepy town attract many Costa
Rican tourists escaping the rigors of
city life. From Puntarenas one can explore
several gulf islands, charter fishing
trips and catch ferries to the Nicoya
Peninsula.
A few miles south of Puntarenas is the
port of Caldera. Here is where the Pacific
ocean liners dock to release their passengers
on an idyllic jaunt through Costa Rica.
Although tours to all parts of the country
are available from here, most stay in
the area to take advantage of the well
developed infrastructure and multitude
of activities available along this coast.
The coastal road south from Puntarenas
crosses rolling terrain as it wanders
part way up the mountainside to Orotina.
This a good place for a short break
before heading back down to the central
Pacific beaches. The intersection on
the main road has several restaurants
and shops to buy drinks, snacks and
fruits.
There’s a lot to do along this part
of Costa Rica’s Pacific coast, and not
all of it has to do with beaches and
water. Surely some of Costa Rica’s best
beaches are here, but the rivers and
mountains behind the beaches hold a
wealth of activities for the adventurous
traveler.
Montezuma: the curious blend
Across the gulf from Puntarenas, on
the southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula,
lies the village of Montezuma. This
bohemian settlement has beautiful scenic
beaches and superb gourmet restaurants
as well as facilities and services suitable
to the most demanding tastes.
Take the Paquera Ferry, departing several
times everyday, and enjoy an hour and
a half trip over the waters of the Nicoya
Gulf. Once in Paquera, another hour
by road will get you to Montezuma.
Foreign settlers first came to this
area in the 1950s. Since then they have
been increasingly active, building the
village which today features all services
and gathers an international community
fully engaged in the protection of nature.
As with many other tourist beach destinations
in Costa Rica, Montezuma has been favored
by foreign investment. The difference
is the fact that most foreigners living
and investing here are very much committed
to bohemian life and the development
of art. This, along with the contribution
of local artists who adopted Montezuma
as their own, has benefited the area
tremendously.
As if beauty and bohemian extravaganza
weren’t enough, Montezuma is the only
beach zone in the entire country where
visitors can enjoy a vineyard tour,
on a wild experience that ends up with
a torch ceremony at sunset. This event
very much reveals the general atmosphere
in Montezuma.
Like other places in the region, enjoy
horseback riding, diving or ocean tours
to nearby islands. If you have at least
two or three days to spare in Costa
Rica, think about visiting Montezuma.
Either by land or by air, Montezuma
is very accessible and worth the visit.
Despite its natural scenic impact, Montezuma
is cozy and intimate; a village that
voluntarily wants to keep a low profile
but nevertheless active and energetic
and that’s the curious blend.
The transitional zone
Heading south from Puntarenas on the
coastal road, the first stop is the
bridge over The Grande de Tarcoles River.
You can’t miss it. It is very long,
there are shops at the approach, and
you are likely to see cars stopped and
people on foot wandering back and forth
across the bridge, looking down toward
the river. They are trying to spot a
few of the resident crocodiles. If you
just can’t seem to get close enough
for a good look, drive on past the bridge
and take the right turn to the village
of Tarcoles. Here you can catch a pontoon
boat ride with Jungle Crocodile Safari
up the Grande de Tarcoles River and
into the heart of Crocodile Country.
The central Pacific has many important
national and private protected areas.
These pristine green zones provide sanctuary
for many endan gered species. The two
most well-known areas, Carara Biological
Reserve and Manuel Antonio National
Park, are readily accessible natural
laboratories that nature lovers enjoy
immensely.
Carara Biological Reserve borders the
Tarcoles River. This transitional zone
encompasses several ecosystems and harbors
an incredible variety of wildlife including
the largest population of scarlet macaws
in Costa Rica. These brilliantly colored
birds are in great danger of extinction
due primarily to nest poaching (the
young are highly prized on the international
market) and habitat loss.
Two entrances along the highway provide
access to two hiking areas. The river
trail passes through marshlands and
past a lagoon formed from an abandoned
river meander. This is an exceptional
area for spotting waterfowl. The second,
shorter trail is a good introduction
to transitional evergreen forests. Along
with the more than 750 plant species
identified here, some representative
animals include white-tailed deer, the
rare two-toed sloth, margay cat, kinkajou,
ocelot and spider monkey.
Just past Carara on the left is a road
leading up the mountainside. Eight kilometers
(be sure to go the full eight kilometers)
through rich forests and past breathtaking
views brings you to a small tourist
complex called La Catarata. Here you
can take a four-hour trek on horseback
through a private, reforested cattle
ranch to a magnificent waterfall. Along
the way you’ll see several expansive
vistas and you’re likely to spot scarlet
macaws, toucans and monkeys.
Beaches and Fun
Next stop is Jaco Beach, where the Ticos
traditionally go to play in the sun.
There’s plenty of infrastructure, shopping,
nightlife and accommodations to provide
anything one might want in a beach vacation.
A plethora of activities abound and
tours can be arranged to most other
parts of the country in addition to
the broad selection available in the
surrounding area.
The road follows the coast out of Jaco
and provides spectacular scenery along
the beaches. At the top of the hill
is a great spot for a final look back
at Jaco. A little further is a perfect
view looking down on the long, black
expanse of Playa Hermosa.
There is a lot of uncrowded beach along
this stretch. Many gravel roads provide
easy access to these oases with names
like Esterillos Oeste, Bejuco and Palma.
They are characterized by grand expanses
of empty beach and minimal established
infrastructure erected by a few local
families, a small restaurant or two,
or a couple of seaside cabins.
Further along, Parrita is a traditional
gas and rest stop on the way to Quepos,
a place to brush off the dust of the
kilometers traversing the African oil
palm groves.
Damas Island
Driving on from Parrita there is an
obligatory stop at Damas Island, a delicate
strip of land broken and separated from
the mainland, reachable either from
the ocean or from the land by passing
through the narrow estuary that sets
this world apart. It is a natural phenomenon,
stressed by a recent earthquake that
divided the island into two sections.
Located just three miles before the
town of Quepos and the resort area of
Manuel Antonio National Park, the estuary
opens a door to a world where animals
still live in natural ways.
The environment has been well preserved
and the calm waters of the canals make
the area an adventurous territory to
be explored.
Sailing the canals
Visiting Damas Island and navigating
the canals of the reserve is a must
for all visitors to the area. The tour
can be arranged at any of the fine hotels
near Manuel Antonio National Park or
from Quepos. Several boatmen operate
at Pueblo Nuevo’s dock, so transportation
and a guide can be arranged right there
as well.
Tour guides are usually from the region.
They are wonderfully friendly and know
the area first hand, making the entire
tour experience safe and educational.
Manuel Antonio National Park
Manuel Antonio National Park is one
of the most beautiful parks in the country.
It is also the most popular, with locals
and foreigners alike. The hilly evergreen
forest providing natural shade from
the tropical sun lines two gorgeous
white beaches sloping to the gentle
surf. Several trails lead through dense
jungle growth to hidden sandy coves
and magnificent lookouts over the ocean
and beaches.
Despite its small size and great popularity,
Manuel Antonio manages to remain one
of the premier nature spots in the country.
The mountains literally meet the sea
here and the ecosystem is teeming with
land, sea and air species. If there
is one place to visit in this country
and be assured of seeing animals in
the wild, this is it.
Just a couple hours walking the park’s
trails are likely to present various
colorful and majestic birds, white faced
monkeys, two-and three-toed sloths,
coatis, pacas, brilliantly colored land
crabs, a variety of multi-hued butterflies,
and interesting insects. The endangered
squirrel monkey, endemic to Costa Rica,
is also frequently seen. In all, over
100 species of animals and nearly 200
species of birds have been identified
in this park.
The area between Quepos and Manuel Antonio
has been commercialized with dozens
of hotels and restaurants offering visitors
a wide variety of accommodations and
dining choices. Camping is available
in some areas near the park and dozens
of roadside vendors offer all manner
of food, drinks and souvenirs.
The above information is courtesy of
Costa Rica Institute of Tourism (ICT).