Northern Region
With Arenal Volcano as guardian of the surroundings, the flat
lowland region that surrounds this colossus is the heartland of
Costa Rica.
For over 400 years Arenal Volcano’s forest-covered cone sat alone
and silent on the edge of the San Carlos plains, exhibiting only
a little fumarole activity in its single, dormant crater. In 1968
it erupted violently without warning, spewing molten rock and ash
high into the sky, destroying the village of Pueblo Nuevo, killing
78 people, and forming three new craters.
It has been active ever since with more or less regular eruptions
of lava and ash providing fiery demonstrations that draw curious
onlookers from all parts of the world. Arenal’s constant activity
has covered the two lower craters on the western, rocky slope. Viewed
from north or south its two remaining craters appear as twin peaks
belching ash and rock.
Rich farming countryside, the flat lowland region that surrounds
the majestic Arenal is the heartland of Costa Rica. The volcano
towers over lush green pastures, and plantations of papaya and cassava.
Rumblings, and occasional explosions, form the backdrop of the lives
of these country people-(campesinos) who make their living from
raising animals and crops.
Most dramatic at night, the 1,633-meter-high volcano can be seen
from many vantage points near La Fortuna, the town in the province
of Alajuela that is closest to the volcano, a winding four-hour
drive from San Jose.
On clear nights, local couples and families pack a cooler and drive
out from town to park their cars by the side of the road to watch
the show of lights and fire. While a number of lodges and resorts
in the area offer excellent views of the volcano, many visitors
prefer to continue on past the hot springs to the national park
an unpaved turnoff on the left, which also leads to the private
Arenal Observatory. From here it is possible to hike four kilometers
through part of the area devastated by the 1968 eruption.
Although at least one La Fortuna-based tour operator offers trips
up Arenal, it is not advisable to climb the volcano. One tourist
was killed and another burned in July 1988 when they hiked too near
the crater. Their foolhardy trip also endangered the lives of the
Costa Rican Red Cross, who rescued the body.
For adventure lovers
The area around Arenal Volcano offers a multitude of activities
for adventure and nature lovers. Arenal Lake is a popular spot for
wind surfers, fishermen and boaters. Fishing and windsurfing tournaments
are annual events on this man-made lake created to provide hydroelectric
energy. The lake is a 24-mile-long reservoir beginning at the foot
of the volcano. The road around the lake-passable, but four-wheel
drive recommended-is dotted with lodges and restaurants.
A major attraction has developed on the volcano’s northwestern skirt
where a hot river runs. Tabacon Resort has channeled part of the
river’s flow into several pools and a manicured tropical garden.
This is a magnificent place to swim in a relaxing way to soothe
muscles sore from horseback riding or hiking. In the shadow of Arenal
while watching giant glowing boulders tumble down its slope.
Venado Caves, north of the lake, offer the adventurous an exciting
journey underground. Visitors crawl, wade and climb through this
dark, sometimes narrow 1.5-mile system of caves. Further north,
near the Nicaragua border, is Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge. The nearly
2000-acre seasonal lake within the park attracts an abundance of
waterfowl including roseate spoonbills, wood storks, anhingas and
the seriously endangered jabiru stork.
Tourism-based around volcano watching, water sports and nature activities-is
booming in the Arenal area, but has stayed on a small, family-owned
scale. Active, low-cost sightseeing and adventure activities abound,
most within a one-hour drive from the friendly town of La Fortuna.
The majority are accessible by four-wheel drive, some by two-wheel
drive, and all are daily destinations.
Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge
Caño Negro National Wildlife Refuge is a remote tropical everglade
teeming with wildlife. The 9,969-hectare reserve protects a lush
lowland basin of soft, knee-deep watery sloughs and marshes, holillo
groves, and tan carpets of sturdy sedge. Live here revolves around
Lake Caño Negro, a seasonal lake fed by the fresh waters of the
Rio Frio, which snake down from the flanks of Volcan Tenorio and
collect in this basin, where they slow almost to a standstill.
In the wet season, when the region is flooded and great pools and
lagoons form, vast number of migratory waterfowl flock in, turtles,
crocodiles, and caimans in abundance bask on the banks, and as you
look down into waters as black as Costa Rican coffee you may see
the dim forms of big snook, silver-gold tarpon and garish garfish
lurking in the shadows. In February, the dry season sets in (it
generally lasts through April), Caño Negro dries out, and the area
is reduced to shrunken lagoons. Caiman gnash and slosh out pools
in the muck, and wildlife congregate in abundance along the watercourses.
Caño Negro is a birdwatcher’s paradise. The reserve protects the
largest colony of neotropic cormorants in Costa Rica and the only
permanent colony of Nicaraguan grackle. Cattle egrets, wood storks,
anhingas (also known as needle duck), roseate spoonbills, and other
waterfowl gather in their thousands. The bright pink roseate spoonbill
is one of Caño Negro’s most spectacular wading birds. It is named
for its spatulate bill, some 15-19 cm long, which it swings from
side to side as it munches insects or small shellfish.
Another favorite is the anhinga, a bird as adept underwater as in
the air you can see it solo of by the dozen, preening way up in
the cypress trees.
The reserve is remarkable, too, for its healthy population and endangered
mammal species, including jaguars, cougars, tapirs, ocelots and
monkeys playacting. And the crocodile colony of Caño Negro is perhaps
the best protected in Costa Rica, though caimans are far more numerous
and easily seen.
Caño Negro, as a national refuge, was established in 1984. The climate
is warm and humid. As from December 1991, this area was declared
Wetlands of International Importance.
Reaching Caño Negro is easy due to the excellent conditions of a
well paved road departing from Muelle, a village located between
Ciudad Quesada and La Fortuna. From Muelle, the road takes you on
an almost straight line to a detour just four miles before reaching
Los Chiles. From there, the refuge is located about 8 miles on a
gravel but in good shape road. Tours departing from La Fortuna usually
offer Caño Negro as a one day tour, however, there is more to see
and one day is never enough. If planning to stay longer than one
day in Caño Negro, we recommend you to establish contact with Caño
Negro Lodge (see ad on this section). This is an Italian owned property
with excellent accommodations and services, including expertise
guides and boats for fishing or nature contemplation. They can also
arrange horseback riding tours and other options to really enjoy
this fantastic territory, indeed a must to all visitors to Costa
Rica’s Northern Plains. When staying in Caño Negro Lodge ask them
for a good Garfish dish, if the fish is not in prohibition by the
authorities, they will prepare you a real banquet.
The above information is courtesy of Costa Rica Institute of Tourism
(ICT).